Don't Cry for me... a current snapshot

A quick and reasonably real time account for those that are interested. Editions of this blog will meander between current and historical experiences.

Mythically known as the Paris of South America Buenos Aires has, for years, been touted as the best value South American city destination. I know many South Africans who have holidayed here on the not-so-mighty ZAR which points to the value it can deliver.

I even know a Brit who honeymooned here in the 'noughties'. He was mindful not to mention the sinking of the General Belgrano whilst ordering his Ojo de Bife. Brave chap showing up here I reckon.

Landed in BA with high expectations. Initially the city, the suburbs of Palermo, Belgrano and Villa Crespo to be precise, seemed vaguely familiar. Many of the streets could be compared to those of the urban sprawl of Cape Town. Sharing the same degree of latitude the weather and seasons are very similar. The main difference, however, is the lack of the towering topographical elements which Cape Town enjoys. Add to this the lack of clean and accessible sea fronted beaches as the city limits of Buenos Aires are on the fairly dirty brown waters of the Rio de la Plate estuary. This delta is formed by the confluence of the Parana and Uruguay rivers.

After the usual admin - sim card, local amenities and airbnb check-in it was time to explore. It seemed that every corner played home to a bodega (wine off-sales) of some sort. Most suburbs had an array of panederias (bakeries) although there isn't an artisanal bread culture to speak of. But you are never are short of options when it comes to Empanadas and Medialunas.

The former can best be described as a mini-Cornish pastie and the latter a diminutive croissant. And how I snacked.... picante, suave, con humita and Pollo. The perfect savoury 'inbetweener'!

Asado and Tinto (braai/BBQ and red wine) are the two quintessential experiences in Argentina. Most of the time they are consumed together. As delicious as they are the cuts of meat here are very different to western Europe.

Lomo (our fillet) is not as popular. Ojo de Bife and Bife de Chorizo (Ribeye and Sirloin) are reasonably popular but the favourite by far is Vacio (cut resembling briskett). This is generally cooked longer over lower heat and to a higher internal temperature. Tire di asado (short rib) is also extremely popular. In short, more economical cuts, by European standards, are enjoyed in Argentina. And don't forget the sweetbreads, Chorizo and Morcilla.

I experienced both ends of the spectrum in terms of value and I must say that the humbler and more original Parrillas (steakhouses) came out ahead. One in particular, called El Secretito, took the cake!

I had the fortunate opportunity of meeting a local BA resident and tech CEO who shared his love of wine with me. He didn't hesitate to share his knowledge and friendship circle with me and in my month or so in Argentina many a bottle and house party were experienced. I met a swathe of interesting people at many an informal gathering.

I was invited to attend the popular La Viruta Tango club to a Milonga which is a dance and social gathering integral to Argentine culture. A place to watch and enjoy talented people dance as well as having a go yourself (with some badly needed instruction in my case). I was introduced to the very Argentine tipple of Fernet and Coca. This is the digestif from Italy called Fernet Branca which is mixed with Coca Cola. Rather medicinal , it is a tonic that helps you dance deep into the night!

I find Argentinians a friendly and outgoing people and my sense is that they share more, culturally, with the Italians than the Spanish. This could be attributed to the very large and prominent Italian diaspora which occurred in two main waves - late nineteenth century to 1920 and then after the second world war. You might compare the then Argentine nation to the Canadians more recently. Looking to embrace all looking to start afresh.

A healthy, although shrinking, Jewish community exists. Ironically, a German contingency too. Both making their way here after the second world war.

A week in Mendoza was required after 4 weeks in the city of Buenos Aires. My wine itch needed scratching and expectations were high...

Sadly they were not met entirely in terms of accessibility to fine wine and estates. It seemed that the more prestigious estates were hell bent on squeezing every drop out of the wealthy American and European tourists. This made my work more challenging, but ultimately, more rewarding. As ever I was gifted some good fortune and made some fabulous connections with some of the smaller and more humble estates and got to taste some incredible renditions of their pride and joy - Malbec.

Politically and economically Argentina has endured a volatile run with no real stability ever having been in sight. Against the backdrop of Peronista leadership the current libertarian Milei has claimed to balance their budget and arrest inflation which might be applauded. However, this comes at a cost which is yet to manifest. An appreciating currency does not do much for exports like tourism or the cost of much needed inputs bought on the world markets.

At the time of writing Javier Milei has just delivered his infamous chainsaw to Elon Musk for the fight against bureaucracy in the USA. And shortly before this he was embroiled in a 'pump and dump' crypto scandal.

Plus ça change it would seem...

But know this, Argentines are a plucky bunch with mixed heritage that adds many strings to their bows.

Brits may use the phrase 'thinking outside the box', South Africans will identify with the 'boer maak 'n plan' mentality in much the same way the French refer to 'La systeme DB' to allude to the use of ingenuity and improvisation.

To get ahead Argenines have to hustle and overcome obstacles in novel and creative ways.